When Jon Mervine and Chris Spinelli opened the ROC Brewing Company in 2011 on the outskirts of Rochester’s East End, they didn’t have a ton of commercial brewing experience, but they did have a distinct vision, a truckload of chutzpah, and a plan to carve out a small niche in an industry dominated by much bigger regional and national players.
So far, so good. The brewpub is poised to celebrate their second anniversary, and their beer is better than ever.
If there’s one thing Mervine and Spinelli do not feel the need to do, it’s try and grow too fast. With most of their sales coming from within the brewpub, the current brewing system is adequate, if labor-intensive. One plan currently in the works, however, is the creation of an outdoor beer garden-style seating area.
Spinelli and Mervine have tackled the problem of limited in-house kitchen space in an innovative manner– by partnering with area food trucks to move the cooking, and a wider variety, just outside the brewpub’s front door.
Brewing commercially with a one-barrel brewhouse is like a never-ending boot camp. In order to produce saleable volume, Brewer Mervine has to make beer pretty much every day. When you do it that often, you get quickly get good.
“I feel extremely comfortable,” Mervine says. A personal quest for me is challenging myself every time I go to brew.”
For Mervine, that challenge can be in designing the unique “Don’t Fear the RIPA” (A silky India Pale Ale brewed with an absurd amount of Rye), or in tweaking ROC’s elegant and understated Golden Ale, with its hints of apple and biscuit.
The ROC Brewing Company’s standout, however, remains the Dark Mild. It’s a fluent crossing of mild ale and milk stout–two styles that just don’t find a lot of favor in the American craft world.
Dark Mild gives you the whiskey and vanilla notes of an oak aged imperial stout, but pulls the alcohol punch, leading up to a creamy, but clean finish. What really makes it stand out, however, is it’s surprising amount of body for a low-alcohol session beer. All too often, these tend to be thin, with bold flavors like vanilla just petering out to nothing. Dark Mild manages to stand up and really give the drinker some substance.
The brewery is celebrating its two year anniversary with a limited-release IPA series: Big DIPA double IPA, Li’l SIPA India Pale Ale, and Down Unda IPA, which will use all southern hemisphere (read: Australian and New Zealand) hops.
ROC Brewing is participating in two major events during Rochester Real Beer Week: The third annual Rochester Real Beer Expo, on Gregory Street June 15, and The Old Toad Cask Beer Festival on June 23, to which they’ll be bringing Union 56, a light, straw-colored, estery bitter based on West Coast pale ale, but decidedly more mild.
Mervine is bullish, not only on the health of his brewery, but on the growing number of craft area craft breweries and the creation of a real Rochester beer scene. “I think we really started pushing each other a little bit more, and we’re going to see twice the amount of breweries in the future.”
“Every beer has a story,” Mervine says with a smile. So far, the Roc Brewing Co. has had a pretty good story as well.
Mark owns a laptop and likes beer. For more on beer, check out the beercraft blog, updated regularly, at beercraft.wordpress.com. Find him on Twitter @beercraft. Send your questions, suggestions, or comments to firstname.lastname@example.org.